We heart Instagram – 10 of our favourites to follow

This weekend we’ve rounded up a few of our favourite Instagram surf and snow accounts for you. Instagram is such a great place to take inspiration from. Get ready to become a snow and surf Instagram junkie – that’s if you’re not already!

And don’t forget to follow @nowripthis 

Who are your favourite Instagrams to follow at the moment?

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Girls On Board Surf Retreats

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Wahine on Waves, East Beach Waitara. 28th April 2014

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Think back a few years to First Love, the inspiring surf documentary from Cos We Can. Remember? Since then the ladies from Cos We Can, Clare Plueckhahn and Fran Derham have been busy working on this beautiful campaign. You’ve most likely already spotted the surf bikinis in the Rip Curl stores. But take a look at the remarkable footage featuring: Pauline Ado, Alana Blanchard, Nikki van Dijk, Tyler Wright and Bethany Hamilton.  prt_270x180_1382422421 

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Make sure you watch this video on full screen.

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Vie Active, created in the beautiful Bondi Beach.

Can you imagine creating a life of happiness and energy? Living and breathing the ocean and the outdoors? Working with and meeting inspiring people who motivate and educate you every day? Sounds like dream living, hey?  This is the reality for mother of two girls and Vie Active Founder Noa Ries. We are very excited to introduce you to her today.

Noah Ries

What does living an active life mean to you Noa?

“Living a life of happiness and energy. It sounds so simple, but being fit and eating healthy makes me much happier and a more energetic person. These days with two kids and a thriving business in start-up mode, I need all the energy I can get!”

One afternoon Noa had an epiphany: Sheridyn-ABOUT_large

“To create an active fashion range after realising I was spending my life in activewear and I would often get to the end of the day feeling cold or clammy and really quite daggy!” We’ve been there before right girls!

“I set out on a mission to create a truly technical activewear that would enable me to do an intense workout, but would also be chic and stylish enough to wear all day long.”

Noa could go on and on, about her love for Merino wool:

“Vie Active started with the finest quality Merino wool – an incredibly unique fabric and the ultimate performance fibre: it is naturally temperature regulating, anti-microbial, shape retaining, moisture wicking, odor resistant. It’s not only super soft and breathable on your skin but it also allows you to be dry, stink-free and just as comfortable after the most demanding run, yoga, or boot-camp session.”

The Noa Foundation Jacket is Noa’s favourite item and it’s where Vie Active began..

jacket“I designed it with all the product features I wanted but couldn’t find. Awesome leopard print, thumbholes, concealed racerback for ventilation, windblocking collar, chunky zippered pockets!”

You’ve come along way, do you have a motto or mantra:

“If you’re not living on the edge you’re taking up too much room. This is something my late father always used to say and it really resonates with me. I truly believe that it is important to constantly push yourself outside your comfort zone – boundaries are only set for safety or from fear. Break down your restrictive boundaries and make a point of testing them. Push against them. Break through them! Find your edge and be FEARLESS, for every accomplishment starts with a decision to try. Be bold. Be audacious. Be fearless.”

Noa’s not the only achiever behind Vie Active…  Bryan has put in the hard yards too. Bryan was raised in both France and the USA. He’s also a former competitive extreme skier and backcountry ski guide. Not to mention he’s a cyclist and a triathlete. (Calm down ladies!)

We didn’t interview Noa for her surfing or snowboarding, but being from the famous Bondi beach we could help ask about her surfing skills. 894471_438195642956791_730314548_o

I’m very lucky to have grown up next to the ocean and love being active and outside…I prefer to have my two feet on the ground or be swimming. I would however like to go back to Costa Rica to practice my surfing again – that’s one of my favorite places.”

Vie Active seems perfect for alpine skiing and snowboarding. Would we ever catch you on a snowboard?

“I’m still working on my skiing skills. My last trip to Whistler was amazing and I got to ski some pretty amazing powder. When I get some more time back in my life I definitely want to learn to surf and snowboard properly.”

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How do you stay healthy mentally and physically?

“I try to do something active every day. More for my mental sanity than anything else. I do a combination of barre workouts, HIIT classes, soft sand running, swimming and walking my two daughters in the pram. I try to nourish my body with food that is as clean as possible simply to provide me with the energy I need to get through the day as with a 10 week old, a 2.5 year old and a new business”

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We ask everyone we interview to complete this sentence… I’m happiest when…

“I am being active in nature. Whether its a hike, ocean swim or soft sand run. Nothing makes me feel more invigorated. I also can’t forget to say I love being with my family and am incredibly happy if I can be active with them.”

1374305_425962010846821_129255289_nImages supplied by Vie Active.

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I’m Laura – A four part web-series

IM LAURA {a new beginning} by Laura Enever from IM LAURA on Vimeo.

Im Laura is a new four part web-series documenting the adventures and antics of professional surfer Laura Enever. After a roller-coaster 2012 on tour Laura decided this year was time for a new chapter. An opportunity for self discovery, doing things a little differently and most importantly being a 21 year old girl.

5 Minutes with Pro Surfer Paige Hareb

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Winners never quit, quitters never win.

Live how you want to live, not how others want you to live.

Who was your first sponsor?
I was 13 years old when I got my first sponsor – it was the girl’s shoe brand, Gallaz.

Has surfing always been your sport of choice or was it just something that you were really good at?
No it wasn’t, I played a lot of sport growing up, tennis, rugby, snowboarding, basketball. I was also in the New Zealand Soccer Acadamy and the Wanaka Ski Acadamy. I used surfing as a relaxing, fun sport from my other ones and I didn’t really think that I could become a pro surfer. All my sport started clashing so I had to decide my favourite and it was surfing because I had always had fun. I could do it all the time and I would never get bored because every wave is different.

You managed to get crowdfunding for your 2013 surfing season after being dropped by Billabong in 2011. How did you come up with the idea to get crowd funding for the tour? It was a local guy that started the whole SportFunder website and approached me to be the guinea pig for it. Of course I was looking for money so didn’t have much to lose so I went ahead and gave it a go.

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So many girls would kill for your body. Are you strict with your diet?
I eat pretty healthy most of the time, but I do like my chocolate every now and then haha but yeah it’s super hard traveling to eat really healthy all the time, especially if you’re staying in a motel with no kitchen you have to eat out all the time.

What inspires you? All the women on tour inspire me and I love watching the guys too. Just seeing someone do something new or different gets me pumped up to try it and push myself.

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What’s the latest and what would you like the future to hold? I’ve had three operations in the last 6 months so I’d like to think that when my body is 100 per cent my surfing will improve and I’ll be able to get better results.

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 After all the places you’ve been to, is your favourite place home?
Home is always good to come back to for a bit, but I love traveling. If I’ve been at home for more than 2 weeks I start getting itchy feet. I love a lot of places in the world and think I could make ‘home’ in a few different places.

You can read more from Paige here. She’s go heaps to tell. Follow and support her, here and here.

Read more on surf here!

Fancy a surf safari with Beck Woods?

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5 minutes with soul surfer Jenny Mikota

We caught up with Jenny Mikota, true soul surfer and founder of Girls On Board surf retreats. She shared with us her passion for the surf, healthy living and travel.

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“Don’t think just do!”

When I was young I grew up on the Great Lakes in Canada. My parents took us to Florida every year and we stayed on Coco Beach, which is where Kelly Slater and the Hobgoods are from. I remember one day seeing Kelly surfing and it looked so cool! I couldn’t wait till I was old enough to move to the West Coast of Canada where I could surf everyday.

When I was a teenager I moved to a special little town called Tofino, it’s in Vancouver Island – a magical place. There was just a few hard-core chicks that surfed at that time. The water is very cold.

We had to motivate ourselves to go out. I remember surfing and it was -4 outside, but the water felt warm because it was 2 degrees! We would wear a 6 mill and could hardly move in the suit, but it would be warm because we would put it in the dryer before putting it on.  It inspired me to check out other places that were warmer. So I headed south of the border (Mexico, Costa rica) in winters. That was the start of my travel bug, led me to some amazing places and meet great people all over the world. Then I discovered Bali, and that was the start of the new chapter. An epic journey of surfing, creating an oasis and discovering what dreams really are made of.

There are so many things and people that inspire me on a daily basis.  I am so really blessed with the awesome friends I have in my life. My boyfriend inspires me with surfing. He is such a good surfer and supporter and it challenges me in the water. I really try and give thanks and feel blessed to all of the moments in my life. It such a wicked journey in life, we make it ourselves and our surroundings is what shapes us to be the best that we can be.

People tell me that I live the dream, but I tell people we are all the dream. Paradise is inside us all, the places we go and the people we meet.

I love to eat organic and it’s easy to do when you live in a small village will local produce shops. I also try and grow what ever I can in season. I have lots of fun trying new recipes. I love to cook and be in the garden – it’s a meditation in itself.

Building the retreat in Balian was quite an adventure. I travelled to Java (the island next to Bali) and found a little village that has 100 year-old teak houses. I transported a house back to Bali and used the recyced materials to build with. I tried to use mainly recycled timber and rock to build the house, beachcombing for timber and rocks became my afternoon pass time.

The whole house was built with a hammer, saw, couple cement mixing buckets and some string line – it’s actually really amazing. The Balinese people are very crafty and I was amazed how good they are doing things by hand. Doing things in a foreign country can be difficult at times, but I think building anywhere you can say just the same. The challenges became less the more I learnt the language, and the more I learnt and accepted how the culture does things. I had to respect the way the Balinese did things and the more I accepted it, the easier it became. Oh ya…. and patience plenty of it!

I do have a passion for many things, as putting passion into the things you do makes you a compassionate person. Yoga, playing the guitar and singing, cooking, hanging out with friends and family, all different types of sports…. Whatever I’m in the mood for!

I continue to love life by loving myself, loving others, being true to myself, and always knowing that I’m on my path, an exciting path and there’s only one life, which is now.

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If you’ve been inspired by this article perhaps you would like to visit Jeny. She runs surf retreats and surfaris around Indonesia. If you want a place to stay she also offers nightly rates in her very cool pad in Balian, Bali.

Bethany Hamilton, she lost her arm, but not her passion

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Bethany Hamilton, 23, lost her left arm to a tiger shark when she was surfing with friends ten years ago. The shark took a gash from her board – 38cm wide and 20cm deep and that was also enough to take her left arm. But she didn’t lose her courage or her passion for surfing. After only three weeks she was back in the water, learning to surf again. Her friends thought she was crazy including Alana Blanchard who was surfing with Bethany at the time of the attack. Alana herself said even she was scared her to go back in the water, after seeing her friend Bethany being bitten. Let’s face it, unless you’re a mermaid your chicken wings would be coming out after you saw your friend getting mauled by a shark.

People didn’t really think I would continue surfing, but I’m passionate about being out there and enjoying god’s creation,” she said.

Later she inspired the book and the 2011 Hollywood hit movie ‘Soul Surfer,’ which is about the shark attack and Bethany’s determination to surf again. Last year she even featured on The Biggest Looser where she taught contestants to surf and showed them that there’s no excuse to being inactive. She hasn’t stopped blazing-a-trail yet. She is a professional surfer on the Association Of Surfing Professionals World Tour(ASP), surfing with the likes of Sally Fitzgibbons, Kelly Slater and Joel Parkinson.

In Australia today she caught most of the media attention at the ASP Burton Toyota Pro in Newcastle when she narrowly got through the heat in second place.

It was tricky and quite small out there – I’m stoked to get through that opening round,” she said. Though she makes one-armed surfing look so easy.

Bethany is definitely someone who puts life into perspective. She’s someone who’s carried on with life after being knocked down. Most importantly she gives a lesson to all of us out there who might choose to take the easy path and miss out on the greater triumphs along the way.

Christmas gift ideas

Struggling to think of Christmas gift ideas? We ♥ a little bit of sneaky online shopping so we thought we would share some reasonably priced gifts.

We’ve picked some snow and surf treasures so even if you’re heading north for some pow or sticking local for the sun – chances are there’s probably something here you will .

If you ♥ them as much as we do, perhaps add to your Christmas wish list 😉 All of the items below are available online – in case you want to forward them onto your Mum, boyfriend or a fellow shred sister. Just click the coloured text to be directed to the purchasing website. Happy scrolling!

1. Sambora beach toes nail polish.

Now you can enjoy twinkly toes even when you’re surfing. Sambora comes in 48 different shades of summer and it’s a local name from Freemante, WA .

Price: $18.95

2. kiki.K coral leather travel document wallet.

There’s nothing worse than running late to the airport and not being able to find important travel documents. Well thanks to kiki.K you can free your mind and stay organised whilst on your trips.

Price: $79.95

3. kiki. K 2013 A5 daily diary.

We love this colour so much because it reminds is that the only thing that is important is just to BE who we are and that that is enough. So why not look at it everyday when making plans.

Price: $44.95

4. Cheeki Stainless Steel bottles.

Ditch the plastic this summer and save the environment and your health. These aluminum bottles come in a range of different sizes and bright colours.

Price: $16.95

5. Musuc bag

There’s no need to unzip the bottom of your sleeping bag and shuffle around on those cold winter adventures anymore. This sleeping bag has arms and legs. They fold up nice and compact too.

Price: 119.00 EUR

6. Rack-It-Up

Stop hiding your boards under your bed and start a shred museum! These babies come in sizes to fit snowboards, skateboards, surfboards and wakeboards.

Price: from $23.99 for 1 set.

7. Chuckbuddies

Now you can snowboard mid week too – at your desk.

Price: $30 bucks and add shipping costs from USA.

8. Paper Sea

This brilliant quarterly magazine is the work of many talented local artists in Victoria. It showcases honest stories and critical pictures about surf, travel and art from around the world. What else would you want to read after an exhausting day on your board?

Price: Subscribe for a year for $50 bucks.

9. Tea Forté

I have sipped on a lot of tea of tea in my time and this one is by far the best. Each one is a work of art, handcrafted in our workshop amid the lush tea gardens of China and designed to infuse as much flavour and aroma as loose leaf teas. If you haven’t tried it before I would recommend the Chamomile or Mint range.

Price: $29.95 for 20 infusers.

10. Roxy ladies go girl snow backpack

This puppy is super light and comfortable, but also has loads of great pockets and an internal laptop compartment .

Price: $79.99

11. Roxy Broadway Art Series Snowboard Goggles

You’re never too old to be pretty in pink with these Roxy Goggles.

Price: Approx $100 including shipping from UK.

12. Map of the world tights

Travel the world in style.

Price: $US 49.95.

13. SKINS Snow Women’s Compression Long Sleeve Top

SKINS help increase blood flow to deliver oxygen to your active muscles. This process also reduces the build up of lactic acid, so you’ll wake up the next day ready to do it all again. Bonza!

Price: Sale $22.99 – Bargain.

14. First Love the DVD

For summer inspiration check out First Love, a local surf film about 3 girls who try to make it big in the challenging surfing world.

Price: 29.95 from Garage Entertainment.

15. And for the big spenders: Tiffany and Co.

Snowflake charm.

Talking surf films with Taylor Steele

Chances are you probably know the name Taylor Steele from his inspiring surf films and beautiful Corona commercials. Taylor’s the guy who makes us want to drop everything to surf and travel. We have a love-hate relationship with him.

He has built a reputation as an influential surf film maker from his 20 years of travelling the world, following waves and making films. His latest baby “This Time Tomorrow” follows two surfers Rasta and Ando as they go on an exhausting 8-day journey to Tahiti, Mexico, California and Alaska to follow a storm cell through the Pacific Ocean. We caught up with Taylor in Melbourne after watching the film.

Where did the idea of the film come from? I’d been thinking about the idea for nearly ten years – a body boarder Mike Stewart did it in the early 90s, but he didn’t take a camera with him. After a few beers one night I started talking about the idea and then the pressure was on to do it.

Rasta and Ando are so loveable, how did you convince them to come along? I really got lucky with the cast. I convinced Craig at the last minute to come along. When we got to Tahiti it wasn’t what he was expecting.

What about the filming, did you come across any problems? When we got to Tahiti there was a competition on at the time so I couldn’t get any boats to go and film from, all my friends were booked out so we had to film from the land.

You really show the boys are exhausted in the film, what was it like for you as a film maker? When the boys went to sleep I had to book flights and plan the next part of our trip.

What about the technical part of the film, the cameras, sound, editing etc? We shot on a Red and a 7D. We just used the sound from the camera. We also used some Phantom footage and it took about two months to edit.

The film is showing at the moment in Australia and New Zealand at Hoyts Cinemas.

Action sport films at Hoyts plus a 2 for 1 pass.

Are you in Australia or New Zealand and stuck in the city so you can’t experience any of the excitement of the outdoors? Garage Entertainment and Red Bull Media House Sessions have joined together to bring the thrill to you.

They are currently showing 12 of the best action sports films of 2012. Films are on every Sunday and Monday from the 17th of June through til the 18th if November. 

For more info Click here

 

Print this pass to receive 2 for the price of 1 adult tickets.

FILM SESSIONS

DATE TIME FILM SPORT
June 24 – 25 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Attack Of La Nina Ski
July 1 – 2 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm One Touch Ocean / Paddle
July 8 – 9 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm One Touch  
July 15 – 16 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Strength In Numbers Mountain Bike
July 22 – 23 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Strength In Numbers  
July 29 – 30 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm White Silk Road Snowboard
August 5 – 6 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm 00000;”>White Silk Road  
August 12 – 13 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm El Mar, El Alma Surf
August 19 – 20 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm El Mar, El Alma  
August 26 – 27 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Congo Outdoor / Kayak
September 2 – 3 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Congo  
September 9 – 10 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Fighting Fear (Event) / Nightrider (Hoyts) Surf
September 16 – 17 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Fighting Fear (Event) / Nightrider (Hoyts)  
September 23 – 24 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Raw Surf
September 30 – Oct 1 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Raw  
October 7 – 8 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Where The Trail Ends Mountain Bike
October 14 – 15 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Where The Trail Ends  
October 21 – 22 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm This Time Tomorrow Surf
October 28 – 29 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm This Time Tomorrow  
November 4 – 5 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Art Of Flight 3D Mountain Bike
November 11 – 12 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Art Of Flight 3D  
November 18 – 19 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Bending Colours Surf
November 25 – 26 Sun 4pm, Mon 7pm Bending Colours

Keep strong with Pilates

Five years ago Kiwi born Fiona Duncan was a successful snowboard competitor and coach. However her snow-consumed life changed completely when she suffered what many athletes dread ­– a knee injury, adding to a string of niggly injuries. Fi remembers getting wheeled away onto a plane to go home to her family, knowing her snowboarding career as it was, was over. Soon after Fi’s life curved again. This time it was during physio rehabilitation when she was introduced to Pilates. Thankfully this helped her body to become strong and to develop confidence to get back into sports. Yoga may be the buzz word, but Pilates was the real life saver, says Fi who is now a Pilates instructor and surf coach.

Pilates was developed in the early 1900’s by Joseph Pilates, who was a sick child in Germany. He believed that mental and physical health were inter-related. Pilates teaches you muscle balance, awareness of your body and to relax the mind. Pilates practise works with smaller muscle groups to help support the bigger muscle groups, for example the hamstring muscles. Many people don’t understand that Pilates can prevent injuries, says Fi. Though she admits that Pilates probably couldn’t have prevented her knee injury, but it could prevent some. Now that Fi practices every day her muscles are much stronger and she is less fatigued after physical activity.

Whether you’re a surfer or a snowboarder it’s essential to have a strong core. This is why Fi has compiled a basic Pilates sequence to complete so you will be ready to charge when your board comes out to play. These exercises can be done anywhere. All you need is a mat. They will activate muscles in your body, keep you flexible and strong in the core, says Fi. If you can do this every day then your body will love you for it!

Relaxation position.
Start lying on your back with your feet, knees and hips in line. Relax your shoulders down your back and lengthen the back of your neck. Pay attention to your breath. Breathe in your nose and out your mouth, expanding the breath into your rib cage.

Pelvic Tilt to Bridge.
Start by activating your deep abdominal muscles (pelvic muscles) and begin to tilt your pelvis forward and back. This will give your lower back a little massage. When you exhale press your lower back into the mat and inhale when you roll your pelvis forward. Repeat six to eight times.
Now begin to peel your spine off the mat and up into a bridge position. Take each vertebra up one at a time, becoming more familiar with your spine and working the little muscles around your spine. Repeat six to eight times.

Dead Bug.
Keep your lower back pressed into the mat using your abdominal muscles. Bring your legs up to a position where your hip and knees are at 90 degrees. Maintaining this position will work your abdominals. If you want to increase the workout try to lengthen your legs away, one at a time, whilst maintaining your lower spine in contact with the mat. Exhale your breath when you lengthen your leg and inhale when you change legs. Repeat 10 to 12 times or until you feel fatigued, but don’t over do it.

Side to Side.
For an added stretch you can lower your legs all the way to one side and let your shoulder come up. Stay in this position for five breaths or more. Exhale on the movement and inhale to stretch. This is a great exercise as it gives you movement in your thoracic spine, which is important for any rotational movements like in surfing and snowboarding.

Chest Lift.
Keep your lower back and tail bone imprinted in the mat, with your hands cradling your head gently reach your chest up towards the sky, funnel your ribs to your hips and maintain the contact with your tailbone and lower back to the mat. Repeat 10 times. For a challenge add leg extensions while you’re in the chest lift position. Best to work up to this. Control the movement in both directions, up and down.

Hamstring Stretch.
Using a scarf or stretchy band push your heel up towards the sky. Keep your pelvis still. You can alternate your foot position by pointing your toe and heel towards the sky to stretch your ankle. Breathe as necessary to help flush out unwanted muscle soreness.

Assisted Roll Up.
Hold the back of your thighs and control the movement of your spine up to a sitting position, challenge yourself to be slow and controlled and avoid momentum to initiate the exercise. Use your abdominal muscles to control the movement up to sitting and back down to the relaxation position.

Back Extension.
Lie on your front, abdominals engaged, arms up in the grasshopper position. Whilst keeping your rib to hip connection lengthen your chest forward and up. Open your shoulders and lengthen through the crown (top) of your head. This is a small movement and it is important to keep your abdominals engaged to support your lower back. This is great for your posture and to practice your surfing. Inhale to prepare and exhale to move up into the extension. Inhale at the top and exhale to release back down with control. Note: your legs and your butt should be relaxed.

Quadricep Single Leg Stretch.
Keeping your body even on both sides and your pubic bone pressed slightly into the mat, take one leg to stretch your thigh (quadriceps) muscle.
Quadriceps Stretch Double Legs.
If you are flexible enough try to stretch both. Be sure to keep your rib to hip connection and pubic bone pressed into the mat.

Mermaid.
Sit with both sit bones in contact with the floor. If you are unable to do this or your knees don’t like it, sit up on a cushion, or with the cushion on one sit bone to even your hips. Stretch one arm up and over to reach to the opposite side. Imagine you are stuck between a small space so you don’t move forward or backwards. This is a wonderful stretch so take your time and end enjoy. Inhale to prepare the stretch, exhale to stretch up and over, inhale to stretch further and exhale when you return to the start.

Child Pose.
As the picture shows, stretch your arms forward to stretch out your back and reach your tailbone down to your heels, for more of a side stretch walk your hands out to the side.

Hip Stretch.
Bend one knee/leg towards your midline and stretch back to stretch out your hip and butt. You can relax your body down or sit up. Inhale and exhale to relax and flush out your muscles.

Standing Roll Part 1.
Starting at the bottom stretch your sit bones up to the sky. Begin to activate your abdominal muscles to tilt your pelvis, sit bones to heels as you move your spine one by one to become stacked to a standing position. Keep your shoulders away from your ears in a lovely postural position. Exhale to initiate movement and breathe to stand.

Standing Posture.
Feet tracking forward, ankles, hips, knees stacked lengthened spine, shoulders down and back being tall and open! Good posture is beneficial for your body and all your organs so try to keep a good posture through out the whole day. We can’t forget breathing – breath is the key to life. It is what we need to keep us alive, so take mindful air in and exhale completely. Breath helps us to have present moment awareness. If you are feeling like you need a good deep breath – take one and sigh it out. It’s yours to own.”

Fiona Duncan is Polestar trained and is continually training, attending conferences and networking to share the benefit of conscious movement. She currently works at Michelle Franks Pilates. She wears MonsRoyale and Lululemon pants.

Looking for a good read this season?

Layne Beachley’s ‘Beneath The Waves’, Tina Basich’s ‘Pretty Good for a Girl’ and Chris Nelson’s ‘Cold Water Souls’ are all recommended by NOW RIP THIS.

Finding your wonderland

It is April in the midst of autumn in Melbourne. Yellow leaves have fallen and they are visible blowing across the grass. The pavement is still wet from the previous night’s rain and the early morning sun glares off the Yarra River. Southerly winds are beginning to pinch. Melbourne is a beautiful city and for now it is what I call home, yet I still need to escape.

A two-hour drive from home is my coastal wonderland. Even on the coldest days I feel warm here and even on the darkest nights my soul is cleansed. It is a place of rolling hills, flowing waterfalls and sprays of sea salt.

Autumn, in all it’s gold is a great time for surfers here. Year round, the beach is not crowded. The summer is warm, but the ocean is still chilly and most of the year surfers are cloaked in neoprene.

As with any location it is not just the geography that can make a place special. It is the friendliness in the people. On my first visit here I was barely a rooky surfer, but I brought my pink foam surfboard to give the waves a crack. Clearly I stood out as a beginner and I was alone. A local dread locked beach bum who filled in his time as a gardener at a caravan park let the weeds grow for a day and offered to take me surfing. He showed me all the best local breaks and those I continue to ride.

Today I grinned at a local fisherman and said “I like your office.” He replied, “Me too – no view here is ever the same.” We finished the second part of the sentence together, “Because the colours are always changing.”

I love to travel and discover new coastlines, but this one just keeps me returning. If you know me, well, then you will know the place that I am talking about. For others reading this, of course I am not going to disclose it to you. Australia has over 35,000 kilometers of coastline. You too should find your wonderland.

I smile as I drive away looking behind at the glorious view in the rear view mirror. That is why I come, despite the cold sand and the freezing water, that is why I come. Now I am heading back to the rules and back to the city. Melbourne is my home, yet it is not my place.

Images by Tamie Wexler and Claire Hanrahan

Riptionary

Finally, for all you peeps out there that want to read these articles, but you just can’t catch the slang and for the shredders that want to add to their vocabulary, this Riptionary is for you. No pictures. No videos, just pure lingo.

Ace: 1.To be in a solitary state of mind. 2.To be alone.

Bail: 1. The act of jumping off your board when you realise a wave is about to close out. 2. Deciding not to do a trick on your board once you’ve already started. Example: “I totally bailed on that jump.”

Betty1. Female rider.

Blow Out Your Squeaker: 1. A phrase that can be said to someone who is hyperventilating and begins to panic after surfacing from a really long hold down. Example: “Dude, just relax. You’re going to blow out your squeaker.”

Blue Bird: 1. A blue-sky day.

Bono: 1. Accidentally riding into a tree at high speed occasionally resulting in injury or death.

Bra Tree: 1.The tree that ladies throw their bras and panties on. Usually the underwear was purchased from Big W or a cheap alternative.

Caddy: 1. The one that holds a spare board for you in the line up of a surfing competition.

Charf: 1. To joke around, make fun of or flirt with the opposite sex in an attempt to get down their pants.

Chillaxing: 1. Just relaxing.

Classic: 
1. Something or someone that is perfect. Synonym: incredible.

Crabs: 1What you can catch from surfer boys. Example: “I was 17 and I thought he was really sexy, until he gave me crabs.”

Crew: 1. A group of people you shred with. Example: “What a sick crew we had last weekend

Da-Bomb:
 1. The absolute best of something. Example: “Dude thanks for the ride, you’re da-bomb.”

Drilled:
 1. To get dumped. Synonym: axed, worked, nailed, ate it. No examples here, people stay pretty quiet after being drilled.

Dropping a load: 1. Something that should not happen in your wetsuit. 2. Shaking the snow off your board on a chair lift so it hits those below. Example: “You totally just dropped a load on that little boy.”

Epic: 1. Used to describe something amazing.  Example: “The ride was epic.”

Face Plant: 1.Landing face first, preferably in powder.

Fade: 
1. To lose strength, become weak or lose interest in something. Example: “I’m fading quickly, I’m gonna go in if I don’t catch a wave soon.”

Ganjala Ride: 1. A ride on the lift, during which the occupants partake in smoking bud. Synonym: riding high.

Grom:
 1. Description of a young shredder who can really rip.

Hairy: 
1. Occurrence where one or often a group of people find themselves in engaged in a situation that could turn gnarly at any moment.

Hold Down
: 1. To be worked by a wave so big that it holds you under for what seems like forever. Synonym: pounded.

Iffy:
1. Something or someone that’s of a suspicious nature. 2. Not a sure thing. 3. Most likely will occur whilst riding with males.  4. Also used to describe conditions. Synonym: dodgy, sketchy, hairy.

Juicy: 1. Used only to describe a sexy surfer who you could imagine getting undressed.

Lame:
 1. Often used to describe friends who won’t go riding with you. 2. Something or someone that is crap. Synonym: shit, pussy, bitch.

Man in the Grey Suit: 1. What Aussie surfers call a shark.  Synonym: The Landlord, shark.

Mank: 1. Used to describe something disgusting or bad smelling. Example: Your boots are mank, get them out of here.

Owned: 1. When a wave makes you it’s bitch.

Oh Shiz:
1. What one might say when he or she realises they are going the wrong way and has to trek back up hill through the waste deep powder. 2. What one might say when they realise their in way over their head. Synonym: Oh Shit, Oh Crap, Oh Fuck, Oh man.

Powder puff girl: 1. A female who loves riding powder.

Rag Dolled: 1. To get drilled, rolled and tumbled by a breaking wave.

Respect: 1.
What you should always have for the sea and the mountains.

Rolling down the windows: 1. A phrase used to describe when someone is caught off balance and they rotate their arms wildly in the air to try and rebalance.

Shredquarter: 1.
The local area of bro activity where males go for bromance. Often found in car parks of beaches and bars after 5pm.

Stoked: 1.To be excited. Synonym: psyched.

Surfari:
 1. Any adventure where the sole intent is to find surf. Antonym: Snowfari

Turd Burglar: 1. One who sits just inside the lineup and seems to be in the best position to pick off waves that other surfers are paddling for.

Wettie Warmer:
 1. The result of urinating in your wetsuit. Often intentionally created to keep warm during the colder months.

Wiggin’ Out:
 1. Going crazy or insane, often a result of taking to much acid the night before.

Wish bone: 1. When a boarder snaps their board doing something really gnarly.

Surf by night

How nice is this?

A brief note on fear

Fear.  The Macquarie Dictionary defines it as a painful feeling of impending danger.

Of all people, surfers would understand it. It’s that familiar sensation of being paralyzed with anxiety.

Let’s face it, unless you’ve got some seriously heavy sack or you’re a mermaid, you’ve probably wanted to poop in your wetsuit at some stage. Maybe you’ve been frightened of having your thigh munched on by a shark, hitting your head on a reef, a big wave or all of the above.

I’m no expert. I haven’t made-out with a gnarly reef like Keala Kennelly, nor have I ridden waves like Layne Beachley. Though from my experience I know that on most occasions when I actually do conquer my fears, it’s hardly as bad as what my mind had originally made it out to be.

If you’re like me and you’re chicken wings do like to come out to play, remember that surfing is 80 per cent mental and you will only gain confidence through experience.

Nobody likes to go home feeling defeated with their tail between their legs. So instead, follow your breath a few times, commit and join in on the fun.

A September surf

It is the last Sunday in September and the last day of the snow season in Victoria. I push my snowboard jacket to the side and pull out my wettie – eff the snow, I’m heading to the coast and I’m stoked.

Leading up to the weekend the surf reports have not been on my side, but I live in Victoria, which means they hardly ever are.

I strap my board on the roof of my Swift. It’s cold outside and I know that I’m probably going to freeze off some of my bits. I’m not going on this mission solo. I cruise around the corner to pick up my friend Claire.

Both Claire and I are only learning to surf, but deep down we love it and just for the record we also think we’re pretty gnarly.

We are both a little unsure of where we will find the best barrels, so Claire makes a couple of calls to some local surf shops to see what they have to say. The conclusion – 13th beach at Barwon Heads. It’s not the best conditions, but it’s not flat as a pancake either and for us that means it’s surfable.

We hit the highway. The cruise control is on, the tunes are mellow, the sun is shining and Claire’s got a map – going well so far. After an hour and a half driving, we pull up to the ocean. The wind is howling and the surf is pretty blown out. Still, we spot a couple of surfers in the water.

“How is it out there?” Claire asks a juicy surfer as he is coming in.

The surf is not pumpin’, crankin’, or going off. There’s onshore winds (which makes the sea chaotic) and it’s difficult to ride. We’re told there’s a spot up the road by the surf life saving club, perhaps we could try there.

That sounds a bit better to us. (Although Claire’s reluctant to leave until the surfer removes his wetsuit and drops his towel from his waist, but of course that’s not why we came.)

We head up the road.

It’s on. We wax up, slop on and battle with the wind to carry our boards out to the water. It’s one of those days.

Though the conditions are not perfect, there are definitely waves to be caught and there are also a few smashing wipe outs. Most importantly we are getting more water time.

I truly believe one day Claire and I will progress to be excellent surfers, but on days like this one, we just enjoy the adventure and soothe our souls in the surf.

Photos by Claire Hanrahan and Byron Heath. Written by Tamie Wexler.